This fall, it seems almost anything goes in menswear. As Shannon Stewart, head buyer for Harry Rosen, says, “It’s difficult to give it one overarching theme because there is a tremendous amount of variety and themes throughout the designer brands.” That said, there are some pretty strong trends that stand out. Here’s what the well-dressed man will be wearing.
TERRIFIC TEXTURE
You know that all-season wool suit you’ve been wearing the past few seasons, the one that’s so practical, but has no style or personality? It’s time to stuff it in the back of the closet. This season is all about irresistible, luxurious texture.
“For blazers and overcoats, wools and tweeds are huge, as are wool ties,” says Nelson Mui, men’s fashion director for Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor. “On the casual end, leather and quilted outerwear are completely on trend, a well as rigid denim.”
The winter suit is back, adds Brooks Thomas, vice-president of menswear for Holt Renfrew. “Tweeds, Donegal, flannel. It’s something that has a bit more texture to it,” he says. “And we’re seeing a definite trend to more chunky, bulky fishermen’s’ style sweaters.”
POPS OF COLOUR
In addition to a dark neutral palette of grey, charcoal and black, this season sees vibrant accent colours in all the wine-soaked hues — burgundy, merlot, red, purple — as well as vivid blues and greens, and spicy orange and mustard.
“It’s one of the more colourful fall seasons (for men) we’ve seen in a long time,” Stewart says. “A lot of the neutrals tend to look better and fresher when you have a pop of colour. It’s psychological in a way.”
Adds Mui: “Burgundy and berry are important fall fashion colours this season. We’re seeing them in pants, blazers and outerwear, but the most relevant way men can get in on this is by wearing accent pieces, such as a burgundy tie and a cordovan shoe. Or you could tone down a statement burgundy piece such as a blazer or pant by pairing it with a very sober, masculine item like dark denim or a charcoal blazer.”
MAKE A STATEMENT
Who are you, really? Let the world know with a statement piece that expresses your personality.
One way to do it is with a trendy graphic T or sweater. “It has to be novelty items, like novelty cashmere sweaters,” Thomas says. “It’s not just a solid colour. It’s an interesting pattern, a check or plaid, or with leather patches. It’s a big, big trend.”
For more casual dressing, says Mui, “The varsity look is omnipresent: varsity jackets updated in slimmer styles, modern colorations, sweatshirts, baseball jackets, paired with denim, chinos and retro runners. Add on a backpack or satchel to complete this look.”
And, for those dressy occasions, there’s the dashing statement jacket. Instead of a tuxedo, it’s worth investing in a luxe jacket in black velvet, deep wine, paisley or brocade, which can be dressed up or worn with jeans. “I think that type of jacket is fun and frivolous,” says Stewart, “but there is value in investing in something like this rather than black tie.”
WELL SUITED
The suit is back, especially in winter fabrications like tweed and flannel. And if not a suit, then a beautiful jacket. The key here is a perfect fit.
“We’re seeing a revival in tailoring, particularly with a British, country gentleman look,” says Mui. “Slim-fit tweed, herringbone and windowpane blazers look strong and polished and can be paired with anything from chinos to jeans.”
True, many workplaces no longer demand suit dressing, but there is a dressier attitude — and expectation — these days, especially when it comes to the sometimes baffling “smart casual” approach to dressing. “Smart casual means you start with a beautiful soft constructed jacket in a wool cashmere and build an outfit around it,” Stewart says. “Ultimately, it’s comfortable, but comfortable doesn’t meant sloppy.”
FANCY FOOTWEAR
“Take a hard look at your footwear,” Stewart says. “Shoes are an easy way for a man to add fashion to his wardrobe.”
This season sees lots of ankle boots — chukkas, Chelsea boots, dress boots, urban work boots — as well as lace-ups, brogues, loafers and novelty sneakers. Brown is back; there’s almost as much brown, in fact, as there is black. And expect to see plenty of colour, pattern and embellishment such as rock studs, coloured laces, even sequins.
Best of all, Thomas says, “It’s an item that’s not expensive like investing in a suit or cashmere sweater. It’s often an entryway into a brand.”
OUTERWEAR
“A lot of guys are viewing outerwear not just as away to keep warm, but as a fashion piece,” Thomas says.
In fact, Stewart says, a man needs not one winter coat, but an outerwear wardrobe comprising two or three different coats. And this season is the one to go shopping for outerwear. Think technical fabrics like nylon or waxed wool, luxe leather, knitwear as outerwear or rich wools and tweeds, and unexpected details like wool or leather patches.
And if you are going to invest in just one piece of outerwear, make it a peacoat.
“There’s not one designer that hasn’t shown a pea coat in their collection. “It’s one of those classic staples that any man can wear,” Stewart says, adding, “You need to own a good coat to get through the winter. And a coat is a great way to pull an outfit together.”
MORE MOTO
Tap into your inner Steve McQueen with the season’s ultimate can’t-miss look: the black leather motorcycle jacket.
“Moto jackets have cycled their way back into fashion alongside the return of ‘black & blue’ dressing in the denim arena,” says Mui. “Rich, dark and rigid denim dominated the runways and the easiest way to get this look is to double up on the denim, or go for the “Canadian tuxedo” look.”
THE FINISHING TOUCH
In a season so focused on self expression is it any wonder that it’s a great time for accessories? They are an easy way to add colour and personality, without making a huge investment or risking ridicule.
“There’s been an explosion of creativity as designers reinvent the classics,” says Mui. “So suddenly, you’re seeing statement blazers in bold colours and plaids, coloured brogues with coloured rubber soles and laces, and an embrace of haberdashery and accessories, including tie bars, cotton and silk pocket squares, lapel pins.”
Look for scarves, ties, pocket squares and colourful socks. Pick up a great bag, a fun shoe, and add a colourful pair of laces. Don’t forget the gloves and hats. Finish it off with a tie bar, lapel pin or great pair of cufflinks. And then you’ll be all dressed up and ready to go just about anywhere.
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